Exposed stone walls, big bay windows, a white-tiled open kitchen… When In Praise of Shadows takes on Japanese street food, you wind up with Sanjo, the beautiful restaurant from chef and stylist Kaito Hori. Inside, his disciples Ryoun Komatsu (ex-Okuda) and ramen-expert Takamasa Hayatsu work in silence, serving major izakaya classics including light gyoza like little feather-down pillows; crispy karaage chicken; sublime eggplant covered in almonds and a miso sauce… Not to mention the ramen, the veritable stars of the house, prepared shirunashi-style (spicy ground pork, a soft-boiled egg and a sesame sauce, without broth) or Sango-style (braised pork loin, a soft-boiled egg, nori, black mushrooms and spicy bamboo shoots, all in a rich pork and chicken broth). So get slurping, down to the very last drop, before giving into the temptation of a deliciously sour frozen yogurt or a chocolate terrine. // C.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are a few natural wines to choose from (including an Ardèche white from Antonin Azzoni at €37 a bottle), but you could also opt for something Japanese like a Coedo sweet potato beer (€7 for 330 ml), a glass of umeshu (plum liqueur, €11 for 80 ml) or one of three sakes – including a dassai at €10 for 80 ml.

PRICE: Ramen set menus €16-21 (lunch), ramen €12-35, desserts €7.