Behind the pseudonym “Sanjo” lies the unlikely story of a Japanese designer who, in the time between fashion weeks, attempted to solve the mystery of the perfect broth for her handmade noodles… Once the potion’s composition was established, the ramen-obsessed chef decided to do away with the Parisian assumption that “ramen = cheap dive” by creating a spacious restaurant with exposed stone walls and light wood, complemented by a stainless steel bar. Inside, respecting the dress code of rubber boots and white aprons, samurai chefs Ryoun Komatsu (ex-Hokuda) and Masa Hayatsu (a ramenologist from Kyoto) doll out the precious liquid. Served à la carte the night we went: nasu dengaku, tender eggplant roasted with wheat miso, illuminated with black light like a Soulages painting (€11); incredibly crispy karaage chicken (€12); smoking hot and nourishing Sanjo ramen in a luxurious and creamy chicken and pork broth, with a milky yet translucent color, where the thin noodles intermingle with a soft-boiled egg, nori, black mushrooms, spring onions, spicy bamboo shoots and braised pork belly called châshû (€17). Before an earthy chocolate terrine for the majestic finale (€7). To drink, there are beautiful natural sakes and wines: Dassaï (€10 for 80 ml), a Loire red from La Grange aux Belles (€7 a glass) or a Terre Blanche chardonnay from Noëlla Morantin (€32 a bottle). Set menu €16-24 (lunch). À la carte €29-36. // M.J.-D.