Like the Star card in the Tarot of Marseille, this sophisticated bistro shines bright for discerning palates in the upper Marais! To conjure effortless Parisian cool, Pablo Escriva, Jules Flottes (both Vatel hotel school alumni) and Ivann Laur enlisted Betyle Studio to blend classic French bistro spirit with the soul of a Spanish taberna, anchored by a striking stainless-steel tubular bar and shell and horseshoe motif marquetry wood work. From there, the stage belongs to chef Sophie Léger, whose impressive CV (ex-Livingston and Le Saint Esprit in Marseille, Le 6 in Paris, Rebel in Brussels) earns her free rein, wielding briny, sea-kissed flavors on the crackling charcoal grill. On the plates that evening: Cantabrian anchovies served pintxo-style; exquisitely delicate cured fish charcuterie (bonito, ventresca and smoked trout killed using the ikejime method); a dazzlingly fresh bluefin tuna carpaccio enhanced with just a touch of lemon and peppery olive oil, paired with a smashed fried potato for dunking in homemade crème fraîche; finishing with a silky crémeux on toast nodding to the holy trinity of chocolate, olive oil and fleur de sel – or ultra-creamy rice pudding slicked with an indulgent whisky caramel. · Tara Dicchio

FEELING THIRSTY? The spotlight’s on southern wines, of both the conventional and the natural variety: a Catalan muscat from Cyclic Beer Farm (€10 a glass), an Occitan syrah from Clos del Rey (€62 a bottle) or a maury from Mas Amiel (€67). Alternatively, let Vincenzo Paolone work his magic with cocktails like the Don Papa Old Fashioned, blending rum, homemade fig syrup and cocoa bitters (€16).

PRICE: Set menu €38-49 (lunch), appetizers €5-26, mains €18-33, charcuterie €9-13 per 100 g, sides €7-9, desserts €9-20 (dinner).