Brut Restaurant (Brussels)

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Despite having grubby mitts from pitching in over at her vegetable garden in Overijse, and wrinkly fingers from doing the dishes as part of her catering services, Alice Pollet (ex-Little Tokyo and Choux de Bxl) still finds the energy to co-manage this zero-waste fine dining spot that strikes an organic, bobo chord (retro tiling, upcycled tables, kitchen discreetly hidden behind a tiny window). Also running the show is her brother Léonard, and they whip up goodies from their vegetable patch, alongside produce grown by the farmers over at Le Monde des Mille Couleurs, for a menu served in five explosively flavorful courses: after an appetizer of roasted squash, next came a huge dollop of beetroot mousse, a piping hot cheese tortilla and tender pork pluma served with a spicy broth and sweet potato… all knocked out by some exceptional North Sea razor clams sautéed with ginger and served with salsify, sunchoke velouté and crunchy chickpeas. Before finishing up with a thin and crispy tartlet overflowing with ricotta, plus zingy blackberry mousse with balsamic glazed redcurrants, and salted caramel popcorn. FYI: the chef also knocks up some mean take-away dishes – just don’t forget to reserve them in advance. // Luce Berdon

FEELING THIRSTY? Fifty of so clean wines (Pierre Précieuse, a sauvignon from Alexandre Bain at €10 a glass, or Coulée de Violettes, a cabernet franc produced by the Amirault family at €7), unless you’d prefer a house fermentation (geranium / citrus / rose kefir, or a white beetroot / Sichuan pepper / thyme mix, €5 a glass).

PRICE: Menus €52-62 (three courses) and €68-75 (five courses), Belgian cheeses €16.

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