What a bunch of Brutes! Alice Pollet (whose CV boasts some serious gastro names) and Marie Desemberg (also behind roaming wine bar and bottle shop Malv) have taken the reins at Brut, until recently run by Alice and her brother. With the restaurant sporting a cheeky new suffix, the unstoppable duo have knocked down the old counter to make way for a bar dedicated to living drinks, while giving the dining room a slick little makeover with terracotta walls and upcycled furniture. The food? Still resolutely plant-forward, with an inspired four- or six-round tasting menu. It’s a knockout! · Ambre Oisy

Ate: After a flurry of homemade amuse-bouches, a punchy smoked tomato with turmeric sorbet, blueberries and feta; umami-packed eggplant with a gochujang miso glaze, alongside vanilla-grilled fennel and fried tofu; followed by stewed rhubarb and raspberries with tarragon and an airy mousse.

Price: Tasting menus €64-79 (4-6 courses), wine pairing €29-48, non-alcoholic pairing €26.