A big dining room bathed in light, a zinc-topped bar, creaky hardwood floors… Caneton will have you feeling nostalgic for old-fashioned bistros. The duo responsible for arousing such emotions? Pierre Clolus, of the nearby Ambassade, and Noa Guindeuil, who updated the classics to reflects today’s tastes (poussin, slow-cooked duck thigh, beef tongue pressé), sourced as locally as possible. On the menu the day we went: a well-seasoned gazpacho with tender labneh, crisp cucumber and cilantro; followed by free-range pork caillette with wonderful peppery notes, plus a generous serving of mashed potatoes, fresh peas and an incredible jus de viande; and for dessert, a rich raspberry financier topped with a spoonful of homemade vanilla whipped cream. // Catherine Jamon
FEELING THIRSTY? : Organic and/or natural wines: Les Monestiers, a Rhone viognier from David Reynaud (€6 a glass), a refreshing chenin from Le Rocher des Violettes in Touraine (€42 a bottle), or Imbibez-Vous, a highly drinkable malbec from Fabien Jouves (€24).
PRICE: : Set menu €12-22 (lunch), à la carte €30-45.
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