Fezi (Rennes)

© Fezi

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As its name implies (if you speak Gallo, anyways), everything here is homemade. And it’s hard to be any more locavore than the chef, Cédric Bruneau (La Table de Clarance in Lille, Le Ciel de Rennes), or more naturophile than the sommelier William Nogris (Auberge du Vert Mont in the Nord department). As for the dining room, it’s sleekness personified – white walls, bistro furniture, lovely artisan made ceramic tableware. The day we went for lunch, our plates were graced with all of the following: a very fresh panzanella salad with heirloom tomatoes, basil and lemon, which had us weak in the knees; a thrilling all-black hake squid ink tempura, with crisp braised leeks, plus new potatoes served with a verdant leek reduction mayonnaise; and a diva-like pavlova topped with summer berries, tarragon-infused raw cream and strawberry sorbet. // Catherine Jamon 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Organic and natural bottles: Mon Nom Est Rouge, a juicy and herbaceous saumur from Jonathan Maunoury (€6.50 a glass),Les Sentes, a vegetal Bugey chardonnay from Les Mangeux d’Pierre (€30 a bottle) or even Cantillon gueuze from Brussels (€30). 
PRICE: : Set menus €19-22 (lunch) and €40 (dinner). 

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