“Kom binnen” (“come on in!”). Scrawled on the front door, these two words set the tone of this bistro-cum-wine bar with a rough-and-ready approach, quietly tucked away from Ghent’s canals. Working behind his open kitchen counter, the easygoing chef Arion Flynn chats casually with diners as he whips up a new menu every day (or almost), based on what’s fresh from Grondig Farm in Heusden. Here, the menu couldn’t be simpler: two starters, three mains, two desserts – and that’s all folks! The evening we went: a cool combo of egg, asparagus and radish doused in a vivid green sauce; flaky pollock with fennel, bok choy stalks and celery, which we preferred over the squid ink tagliatelle with cockles and chicory – and the tagliata (sliced steak) pimped with spelt and aged Parmesan, which looked pretty irresistible all the same. And what’s for dessert? Chai sorbet served with a bewitching walnut and hibiscus frangipane. · Jeanne Jaco

FEELING THIRSTY? Quality beverages for discerning palates: vibrant wines (Le Tippi, a Puglian rosé pet’ nat’ at €9.80 a glass, a Catalan syrah-cabernet blend from Garrí Novell Salvatge at €39 a bottle), Turi vermouth (€7 a glass) and Levuur kombucha (€5).

PRICE: Set menu €25 (lunch), starters €15-20, mains €22-32, cheese €13, dessert €11.