Fricot

Ready, set, fricot! Things are heating up at this prominent Angers spot, founded by Louisa Bellanger (who used to work at Elmer and Le Chardenoux in Paris) and Margot Nicolas (who just arrived from Autour d’un Cep). They alternate between front-of-house and kitchen duty, preparing their blackboard market menus with zero fuss as a team. During our last lunch there, seated in the traditional-chic dining room (old hardwood floors, whitewashed walls, an open kitchen), we had all of the following: beautiful langoustines pan-fried in butter, an ultra-concentrated bisque and grated cabbage; chicken ballotine from Daudet, stuffed with mushrooms and served with creamy polenta and pan-fried kale; plus a very simple and delicious lemon tart. On Friday nights, make room for an extensive menu featuring dishes like beautiful shrimp ravioli moistened by a star anise and lemongrass broth, or line-caught yellow pollack from Erquy, with a sage and olive sauce. // Thomas Jossin

FEELING THIRSTY? A well-stocked wine cellar: Les Greilles, a Gaillac white from the Domaine Causse Marine (€6 a glass), À Nous la Liberté, an Angers Chenin from Simon Rouillard, Margot’s boyfriend (€33 a bottle), Figurines, a Pinot noir from Hervé Grenier (€35)…
PRICE: À la carte €30-35.