Good bottles of wine, plates to share (or not): nothing could be simpler at Marie Le Damany and Guillaume Ferronnière’s place, who delight regulars in Pornichet with their cheerful cave à manger (“glouglou” spelled out in red neon lights, oenophile posters, retro armchairs). If the two of them are sommeliers at heart (she used to work at Le Saint-James in Bouliac, he used to work at Louis XV – Alain Ducasse in Monaco), their roles are now divided: she works the corkscrew, and he dons the apron. The night we went, that meant deviled eggs sprinkled with fried onions, paprika and chives, with a cucumber-pickle relish for added zing, all making for a totally addictive snack; panko-breaded shrimp, whipped up with a comforting mint and wasabi mayonnaise; flash seared cuttlefish in garlic butter, with sorrel cream and puffed buckwheat – his grandmother’s recipe, borrowed from Troisgros; and to round out the meal, a slice of homemade tiramisu that was light and none too sweet. // Larosé

FEELING THIRSTY? : Over 300 labels of naturopathic wines from all across France: L’Idylle, a Burgundy gamay from Raphaëlle Guyot (€7 a glass), Le Blanc Qui Tente, a sémillon marmandais produced by Stéphanie Roussel (€30 a bottle), or Ornate, a local merlot from Jérôme Bretaudeau near Nantes (€75).
PRICE: : Plates €5-25.