Le 21

Le 21 (Pornic)

© Patrick Gérard photographe

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Here’s a true Garden of Eden in the culinary desert that is Pornic! Le 21’s chic nautical space is a veritable briny ode to joy. Christine (with the wine) and Gérard (in the kitchen) converted their fine dining establishment Le Beau Rivage into a beautiful wine bar (a swordfish on the wall, wine posters by Michel Tolmer, panoramic views of the Plage de la Birochère), and maintain equally high standards with the drinks as with the food. The day we went for lunch: an enticing fish plate – marinated anchovies and mackerel with mustard and coriander, sardines slow-cooked with piment d’Espelette; wild bass fillet tucked up against garlicky spinach, risotto with chanterelles and a shellfish sauce; turmeric-spiced veal sweetbreads served with a full-bodied jus de viande, plus a carrot and parsnip brunoise; before an elegant blueberry confit amandine topped with a white chocolate ganache. An extra incentive to visit: there’s a fine foods corner with whiskey from Michel Couvreur, Bellota-Bellota olive oil or even Alain Milliat fruit juices. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a strong organic wine list, with 300 labels to choose from (a Fronsac from Paul Barre at €38, a Côtes-du-Roussillon red from Olivier Pithon at €39, an Arbois white from the Tissots at €44) and a predilection for Loire vintages – Landron, Carsin, Guiberteau, Bretaudeau, etc.

PRICE: Menu €18-24 (weekday lunch and in the off-season), à la carte €27-50.

Late-night munchies?

Le Fooding’s 2023 Guide is ready to dazzle with its brilliant selection of the year’s latest hotspots, including 500 restaurants, bars, bedrooms, shops and cellars across France; a highly-anticipated award’s list; and ever-more enlightening in-depth articles sprinkled throughout the extravagant, 228-page edition of the yearly magazine, illustrated by the crème de la crème of emerging artists.

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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