Take an old stone building, Breton chickens and sheep, a few cabins, a gîte and a restaurant, alchemize everything and you’ll get La Morinais, Pierre-Louis Guérin and Samia Gharet’s family-run farm, which has been offering up thrills and good food for five generations now in the Pays de Redon. The night we went, chef Andrea Giovanforte prepared some very honest eggplant and basil dip; crispy and tender breaded beef tongue; an incredibly fresh gazpacho combining cucumber, shallot mousse, mint oil and garlicky croutons; wonderfully juicy Bretonne Pie Noir steak served with beautiful vitelotte potatoes, tomatoes, zucchini and patty pan squash with generous amounts of browned butter sauce on a big family-style plate; and for the final note, a dessert combining a financier, melon with pink peppercorns, a light blackberry cream and some sensational gwell ice cream. // Catherine Jamon
FEELING THIRSTY? : A naturalizing wine list: Campana, a Corbières white from Les Mirouze (€5 a glass), L’Argonette, an Anjou chenin from Pierre Chauvin (€28 a bottle), Les Nouettes, a red from Garnier (€36)…
PRICE: : Set menus €32, kids’ menu €15, cheese plates €3 and €6.
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