Partisan

Friends, can you hear the lovely hiss of the pizza baking? The polar opposite of those sad disks of dough topped with pale cheese, the pies made by these two rebellious friends, who are crazy about rap and good food, champion artisan-made ingredients (especially with their good organic dough that’s rested for 36 hours). Tony Cailleux, the former chef of Le Grand Huit in Montmartre, works the oven and does the kneading, while Julien Guillaumet, who used to work at La Liquiderie in Paris, keeps an eye on the beers and fermented grape juices. Serving outstanding Italian or local combos, they delight guests seated in the carved stone and wood dining room, or on the modest terrace across from the prefecture. The day we went for lunch: smoking hot focaccia topped with lardo di Colonnata, a work of art; an imperial roasted veggie pizza that would make Caesar green with envy, featuring a thin crust, San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte cheese, organic local vegetables (zucchini, pepper, fennel, eggplant), plus feta, green onions and anchovies from Cetara; or an Umami pizza with tomatoes, field mushrooms, Galician beef ham, walnuts and creamy gorgonzola. For la dolce bocca, there’s a chocolate cream pudding with crumble topping and Piedmont hazelnuts. // Renaud Fuego 

FEELING THIRSTY? Julien, the sommelier in a baseball hat, keeps thirst quenched with some crazy craft brews – a NEIPA Eroica from The Piggy Brewing Company (€6 for 330 ml), Presse-Framboise sour ale from the Brasserie du Grand Paris – and less impressive wines – an Alsatian Edelzwicker from Frédéric Geschickt (€25 a liter), Le Jus Juste d’Armand, a Bourgueil from the Domaine Artilly (€25).
PRICE: Focaccia €5, pizzas €12-16, desserts €6.