The game of musicool chairs never ends at 6 Paul Bert, which has been rebooted once again by serial bistrotteur Bertrand Auboyneau, after an eight-month stint as Julien Pham’s Bistrot Tontine has come to an end. With Vietnamese chef Cong-Linh Hoang’s interim period now up, Pauline Séné (ex-Fripon) now manages the place, all refreshed for the occasion (new storefront, new parquet floor, new kitchen). And that lunchtime, the chef knocked up some compositions that were invigorating and cleverly deviant in equal measures: stunning grilled beef tongue draped in tonnato sauce and paired with roasted cos lettuce; incredibly melt-in-your-mouth cod with a wonderfully acidic sorrel beurre blanc and a dash of a powerful lemon condiment, with new potatoes and dried kale; before a surefire glycemic boost with a chocolate brownie with peanuts and miso caramel – to die for! In the evening, the menu expands (pigeon, skate wing, etc.) over five courses. In short, not only has Le 6 Paul Bert got its name back, its definitely got its groove back too! // Éric Taylor

FEELING THIRSTY? A classy biodynamic and natural menu: a chablis from Domaine de l’Enclos (€56 a bottle), a riesling from Jean Ginglinger (€90), and Fusion, a gamay d’Auvergne from Vincent Marie (€62). A special shout out for the selection of wines and champagnes by the glass (€8-16).

PRICE: Menus €26 (lunch) and €75 (five courses, dinner), à la carte €49-67.