Despite a mere 30 years under his belt, the Charente-born chef Romain Thibault (ex-Pintxo Club and L’Antre Amis) already has an enviable reputation, and can be found working both the lunch and dinner shifts at this former pharmacy converted into a beautiful bistro in 2016. The other day at lunch, we were prescribed a nice lunch menu: tasty rope-grown mussels with crisp zucchini and preserved lemon; plump boudin noir seasoned with Thai spring onions and served with perfect potatoes and from Île de Ré; before Breton shortbread topped with a silky lemon cream for the comforting dessert. At night, there’s a briny selection available à la carte: langoustines flash-seared alive with lemongrass and served with a carrot cream; magnificent lightly-seared line-caught Albacore tuna with crisp vegetables and a parsley cream, etc. // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s craft LBF beer (€6 for 330 ml), a Roussillon orange wine from the Domaine Riberach (€7 a glass), a Jura red from Jean-François Ganevat (€49 a bottle) or an Alsatian white blend from Geschickt (€40).

PRICE: Menus €19-24 (lunch) and €55 (food and wine pairings +€35), à la carte €34-47.