Inside this former 19th-century pharmacy, there are still some medical jars on the shelves, original tiling and a dumbwaiter. But ever since Romain Thibault (ex-Pinxo and L’Antre Amis) arrived, the house only treats hunger pangs! The day we went, the recommended dosage was a crisp pork cromesquis over a cream of butternut squash and daikon radish (€8); then a silky cod steak, perfectly cooked and seasoned, served with colorful carrots and disappointing coco beans (€22); before a moist honey cake topped with a caramel crisp, plus Comice pear and juniper (€8). To drink, the bottles fly off the shelves without a prescription: a Chiroubles from the Domaine Damien Coquelet (€7 a glass), Billes de Roche, a piercing white Saumur from the Domaine Mélaric (€38 a bottle), a red Côtes-du-Rhône Villages from Alain and Philippe Viret (€40). Set menus €19-24 (lunch), €55, à la carte €36-45. // A.Be.