Could the Scuderia Ferrara be more powerful than ever?! Putting the pedal to the metal, the great Fabrizio is making the hair on the back of our neck stand up with his bistrosteria that has plenty of character (rough stone walls, bamboo lampshades, brushed copper lamps…). The night we went, it was fusion, fusion, fusion: it began with a bang with burrata and bottarga in an anchovy vinaigrette (€13), and home-made linguine with an orange, chili and mussel sauce (€18); then a sharp turn via chestnut flour ravioli filled with chicory and ricotta, plus sautéed mushrooms and a vibrant jus de viande (€20); before a straight shot towards fusilli with broccoletti pesto, guanciale and savory ricotta (€16). One final spin around the race track that ended with a return to the sweet standards, like a soft sbrisolona (almond shortbread) with creamy mascarpone (€10). To drink, there are nothing but wines straight out of Italy: a Montepulciano from Abruzzo (€8 a glass), a Trebbiano from Noelia Ricci (€38 a bottle), or a Barbera from the Vino del Poggio (€55), etc. À la carte €36-50. // A.A.