Le Fooding’s Big Crush of 2017
Behind the untreated wood bar of this tiny café by the buzzing Faubourg Saint-Antoine, you’ll find Omar Koreitem (ex-Sergent Recruteur, with the savory eats) and Moko Hirayama (ex-Yam’Tcha, with the sweets) casting a spell over the neighborhood with their comforting cuisine infused with Levantine details. The day we went for lunch, we had juicy heirloom tomatoes cozying up with Imperial shrimp and seasoned with tangy purslane, sumac, nasturtium blossoms and oxalis; a stunning Banka trout crudo with coco de Paimpol beans, moistened by a sublime lemony mussel broth; before a truly incredibly almond, pear and cardamom-spiced tart, sprinkled with thyme and sumac – or generous focaccia with figs intensified by labneh sorbet. Don’t miss Moko’s fabulous cookies either: miso/black sesame, tahini, chocolate/confit olives… // D.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? Homemade orange blossom lemonade (€4 a glass), toasted buckwheat sobacha (€4 for an individual teapot) and a few natural or organic wines: L’Orphée, a Pic-Saint-Loup from Le Mas Foulaquier (€7 a glass), Athénais, a Burgundy white from Béru (€45 a bottle)…
PRICE: À la carte €31-44.