Biggest Crush of 2017
The two geniuses running this mesmerizing coffee shop in a very humble space (an untreated wood counter, beautiful benches, a checkered tile kitchenette) conceal the extent of their talent like kung fu masters. Omar Koreitem’s (ex-Sergent Recruteur, who takes care of the savory dishes) Americano-Levantine soul and Moko Hirayama’s (ex-Yam’Tcha, responsible for the sweets) rising Manhattan sun are infused into every bite of their cuisine. The day we went for lunch: a red sea of glazed tomatoes surrounding a paradisiacal island of Zapallito squash, radish, hyssop and nasturtium, all sprinkled with sumac; an Albacore tuna crudo from Saint-Jean-de-Luz provided an infinite caress, sparkling like a jewel on Place Vendôme, plus green and borlotti beans, Datterino tomatoes and pesto; before a miso-sesame cookie made by Moko for dessert, that would make even the finest of pastry chefs blush – or a crostata topped with white nectarines and gooseberries, decorated with fennel blossoms. // M.J.-D.
FEELING THIRSTY? Homemade orange blossom lemonade (€4 for 180 ml), toasted buckwheat tea (€4 for an individual teapot) and a few natural wines: a white Burgundy from La Sœur Cadette (€7 a glass), a Morgon from Jean Foillard (€55 a bottle).
PRICE: À la carte €31-41.