There’s fresh fire in the hearth at the legendary Chalet de la Forêt, now that chef Pascal Devalkeneer’s chic woodland cabin has been given a top-to-toe makeover by creative director Pili Collado and architects François Marcq and Nelly Smets. Think a spectacular ceramic fireplace designed by Feipel & Bechameil, plush velvet banquettes, atmospheric wall lights… and views over Sonian Forest, where the leaves seem to sway to the jazz soundtrack. Brought to the table by a young team dressed in Romarin Uniforms and led by Tara Perraudin (ex-Achille), the dishes find their groove, minus some of the old-fashioned frippery, accompanied by fine wines handpicked by Jeno Del Turco, crowned Belgium’s best sommelier in 2023. A little less fuss, a lot more buzz! · Elli Friari

Ate: Among other dishes, refreshingly unfussy mallard duck breast blushing pink, with potato tuiles, kale foam, hen of the woods mushrooms and stewed quince – autumn on a plate; and a delicate chocolate meringue finger with red berry coulis from pastry chef Nelson Lechien.

Price: Lunch menu €78 (three courses) or €145 (three course, glass of champagne, two glasses of wine, water and coffee included), chefs’ menu €195 (six courses), starters €29-89, mains €34-99, desserts €19.50 to €23.50.