Ruben, a purveyor of natural wines, transformed this former cheese shop into a treasure trove of colorful, funky bottles, complete with a chalkboard-black facade, quirky vintage knickknacks and a charming mural by artist Alexis Poline. Always keen on a good excuse to party, Ruben rarely misses a chance to liven up Le Vigan – from Fête de la Musique and birthdays, to new-moon celebrations, winemaker tastings and chef pop-ups from around the Cévennes. That lunchtime, the sole main whipped up by Ruben was a magnificent pistou soup, dazzling with zucchini, green beans and orecchiette, crowned with shaved dried chestnuts from Paul Remise, who also sells his knock-out chestnut hummus at the local market. A few weeks earlier, it had been silky ajo blanco with pickled grapes, tarragon oil, kimchi powder and pangrattato. Dessert – when it makes an appearance – can be just a riotous, like chocolate mousse with punky black olive praline and peanut caramel. Guest hands sometimes join the fun too, like Raphaël from Atelier Bizarre in Montpellier, who once served mafaldine pasta with anchovy-fermented gremolata and pecorino, followed by a pitch-perfect porcini mushroom crème brûlée · Megan Linar

FEELING THIRSTY? Enough to make your head spin! By the glass (€5-6): Patte Blanche 2.0, a rounded white from Philippe Blatier in Caveirac, or Ubac, a local red from Guillaume Thierriet. By the bottle, from a lineup of 300 wines split evenly between winemakers, look to the pineau d’aunis from Ariane Lesné in the Vendômois (€22 + €7 corkage fee). There are also enchanting fruit juices from La Table des Lutins (black cherry and wild savory or Williams pear and wild thyme) at €5 for 330 ml.

PRICE: À la carte €25-30.