Along Rue Royale, inside the recently renovated Corinthia Grand Hôtel Astoria Brussels hides a not-so-secret secret. Christophe Hardiquest, the mastermind behind the Michelin-starred Menssa and the now-closed, two-starred Bon Bon (the big brother of Le Petit Bon Bon), has opened an upscale Belgian brasserie, not just for hotel guests – but for the hoi polloi too! Facing the mesmerizing open kitchen, it’s here in the large, elegant dining room filled with polished wood features and big mirrors, that we discover the Oyster Au Gratin “Expo 58” – a baked oyster with a champagne, bacon and spinach gratin. Printed on ultra-thin newspaper, the rest of the menu offers everything you’d expect from a Belgian brasserie, from vol-au-vent royal with veal meatballs and sweetbreads, to Ostend-style cod. The cherry on this already stunning little cake? The signature cocktail Papieren Vliegtuig, which is served with its very own paper airplane, made on the spot! It’s exactly what you’d expect – but it still puts a smile on your face all the same! · Jean Gourmand

FEELING THIRSTY? Mon P’tit Pithon, a red Côtes Catalanes from Olivier Pithon (€11 a glass) or Les Pargues, a chablis from Domaine Servin (€16). Those going nolo can try Le Fils De L’Homme mocktail made with apple juice, mint, elderflower and lemon sparkling water (€13).

PRICE: Appetizers €7–28, mains €26–44, desserts €10–14.