In the name of the sea, pleasure and the Holy Spirit, let’s eat! The holy trinity of Jeanne Bolloré (welcoming guests, ex-Bistrot Paul Chêne in Paris), Jules Roncin (in the kitchen, ex-Lolo also in Paris) and Alexandre Parent (popping opens bottles), who are all (more-or-less) from round these parts, are reviving the local social scene with their wonderful little bistro that’s had a modest makeover, with crimson-red walls and tables topped with little vases of baby’s breath flowers, for a touch of old-fashioned charm. Under the watchful eye of Serge the dog, the day we went for lunch the kitchen whipped up: red tuna prepared using the ikejime method, then served as a carpaccio and delicately seasoned with oil, salt and passionfruit marigold petals; then – after the signature cockles, served in a traditional Breton bowl and doused in a buttery harissa jus – white tuna mi-cuit, which was less exciting then its companions of white, green and yellow zucchini from the Jardins Nomades farm, nasturtium leaves and a moussey hollandaise sauce. And for the show stopper? A light and bubbly chocolate mousse studded with caramelized buckwheat nibs, served at room temperature. · Laszlo Dela

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list as long as the aristocratic local names, including Soif Du Mal, a Roussillon white from Les Foulards Rouges (€36 a bottle) and a red beaujolais from Marcel Lapierre (€71).

PRICE: Lunch menu €26 (red tuna carpaccio €18), à la carte (dinner) €42-59.