Ahoy there – loosen your belts and pass the picks, we’re diving in shell-first. Whelks, brown crabs, spider crabs, and – above all – oysters. Not just any oysters, mind you, but beauties raised by a band of neo-oyster farmers led by Simon Picard (business school grad turned full-time shell whisperer), with beds on Île Berder and along the banks of the Auray River. Together, they’ve breathed briny life back into this storybook oyster shack, with its centuries-old timber frame and a blazing stove that crackles like it means it. The other evening, perched on the concrete and steel terrace floating dreamily above the glittering waters of the gulf, we were practically blinded by the sunset – and the dazzling display of shellfish: regal crab rillettes from Groix; warm oysters cloaked in garlicky parsley butter; then a show-stopping seafood platter featuring three Berder oysters, three milder Auray oysters, raw clams, a flutter of brown shrimp, periwinkles, whelks and cheeky whole-grain mustard mayonnaise. To finish? A magical far (a custardy, prune-studded Breton flan) fetched from the local bakery in Larmor-Baden, warmed and served with a swirl of salted caramel. At this rate, it’s less dinner, more maritime love affair on the prettiest of high seas! · Scotty Lard

FEELING THIRSTY? A tight little list curated from A to Y by Breton sommelier Julien Blanchard: a quincy from Domaine de Villalin at €5.90 a glass, Havana, a minervois rosé from Château Tourril at €32 a bottle) or a glass of local cider from Maison Kystin (€5.50 for 33cl) and Alain Milliat white grape juice (€6).

PRICE: Oysters €7.50 to €10 for six, seafood €6.50 to €23, platters €20-€39 per person.