Chirp chirp! After spending long enough making eyes at each other in the kitchens of The Peninsula, Ernest Ma (front of house) and Shan Wu (in the kitchen) were ready to spread their wings, hatching a pocket-sized eatery of their own and filling it with all their flights of fancy: well-traveled trinkets, kakemono calligraphy scrolls, paper lanterns, plus a cracking collection of Japanese spirits, which Shan sources with the precision of a kikisake-shi (sake specialist). On the plate, their wingspan stretches right across China, from lamb and leek shāo mài as they make them in Inner Mongolia, where Shan was born, to yangzhi ganlu, the cult Hong Kong dessert Ernest grew up with, swirling together mango, coconut and pomelo. · Bouyaya Kitori

Ate: Crispy spring rolls filled with carrots, wood ear mushrooms, water chestnuts, pak choi and vermicelli noodles, with a smudge of shrimp sambal; sweet-and-sour pork ribs with a double-vinegar glaze (balsamic and Yongchun black vinegar), lime and prunes; and sake kasu (sake lees) ice cream.

Price: €38 menu (four courses, lunch), plates €12-25, desserts €7-12 € (dinner).