Nestled inside a charming little maison de maître, complete with two cozy dining rooms, a kitchen that plays peekaboo with the veranda, a well-kept garden and a bar tucked under a vaulted brick ceiling, Luma feels like a lifeline. No, not from rising sea levels or climate change, but from something far more immediate: an ocean of suburban ugliness unapologetically whipped by the nearby Bultia shopping center. The kind of place that makes you lose all hope. And yet, like a poppy piecing through the concrete, this visually soothing oasis orchestrated by Lucas Vanderschueren (ex-Tribeca in Gerpinnes) and Maxime Urbain (ex-Villain and Atelier de Bossimé) puts a big smile back on your face. It’s nothing flashy, no, just dishes that awaken the senses. The day we went for lunch, seated in the dining room opening out on to the lush green garden, we were treated to: white asparagus lined neat in a row, enrobed in smoked salmon, resting on a bed of sorrel and Korean mint pesto; followed by a potato pressé served with Parmesan-stuffed morels and seasonal veg deglazed with port and butter from Ferme de Wungaert (located a mere five minutes away); and for the sweet finale, rhubarb stewed in red wine, yogurt ice cream and macadamia nut crumble – the perfect ending to set the record straight. · Frans Simoens

FEELING THIRSTY? A slightly uninspired wine list, including a Côte Roannaise gamay from the Domaine des Pothiers winery (€30 per bottle), or even a lively chenin from Alain Robert in Vouvray (€31). Not tempted? There’s always Orval beer (€6).

PRICE: Set menus €35-40 (lunch), set menu €65 (dinner), appetizers €20-30, mains €30-36, desserts €8-14.