Melon

There’ll be no twisting your melon at this Nantes eatery, where the brilliant Julia Custodio (ex-Aulis and Roganic in London) and Pierre Brunelli (sommelier-turned-chef) like to pair Melon muscadets with bistro cooking by the self-taught chef who refined his skills under Simon Rogan in Hong Kong. The other day, seated at the windowed bar slightly removed from the dining room that’s been given a DYI makeover (pine shelving, pale green walls, caramel banquettes), we savored a sizzling lunch: meticulously-prepared, umami-packed, flame-charred mackerel gravlax, cozied up against a brunoise of cucumber, Granny Smith apple and black radish, glistening in wasabi mayo and sitting pretty in a dashi broth dotted with wild garlic oil; cheeky chicken breast sprinkled with crispy crumbled chicken skin, perfectly paired with half a king oyster mushroom glazed in teriyaki sauce, plus a velvety caramelized celery root purée and kale chips coated in a celery beurre blanc sauce; before an indulgent ice cream sandwich for dessert, featuring artisan gingerbread ice cream and roasted quince sandwiched between two halves of a macaron. // Scotty Lard

FEELING THIRSTY? : Bottles of conventional wine (including a Sèvre-et-Maine muscadet from Antoine Delaunay at €5 a glass), duly complemented by some more sustainable options (like the Haut-Médoc from La Closerie des Moussis at €38 a bottle), an American pale ale from Aerofab (€3.70 for a half-pint), among other craft beers, plus homemade kombucha (€4).
PRICE: : Set menus €20-23.50 (lunch), à la carte €30-37.