Craving a bagel and latke worthy of NYC? Léa Frimerman and Sacha Lustyk hit the double whammy with this family-run deli dripping in transatlantic cool: chrome-and-leather high stools, a yellow Formica counter and orange pendant lights. The simple idea behind Mensch (“a decent, upright, honorable person” in Yiddish): make you fall hard for the Ashkenazi classics of any self-respecting American diner. All week long at lunchtime, it’s bagels on repeat (made fresh every morning, stuffed with cream cheese, corned beef or lox) and crispy latke madness, served in dangerously unlimited quantities. As for us, we opted for the smoked salmon plate with dill cream sauce, salmon roe, capers and a riot of pickles, served with fennel seed bread, latkes perfectly crispy outside and melting within, plus a cooling spoonful of creamy cucumber salad. Dessert? Grandma Rachel’s strudel stole the show, edging out the chocolate-walnut cookie despite its showy looks. · Herber Martin

FEELING THIRSTY? Besides a few souped-up classics (Umà Cola and Lemonaid, €3.50 for 330 ml), there’s a delicious Maison Kodama iced tea, optionally spiked with maple syrup (€3.50) and, of course, filter coffee from Grains de Génie (€3).

PRICE: Sandwiches (bagels, latkes or brioche buns) €6 to €11.50, set menus €11-€18, mains €14-€15, desserts €3.50 to €6, set menu €20.