Nonos

White marble tables, luscious white hydrangeas, and of course, a sea of white collars and guests with pearly whites. That’s a slice of life in the peaceful inner courtyard of the Crillon Hotel, cut off from the rest of the world. Far from the hubbub of the city, we rejoice, rightfully so, inside the lovely Nonos brought to life by the great Paul Pairet, an international star, a great flamboyant chef, who is never without his grey Mao cap. In between two trips to Shanghai, the chef has orchestrated this clever French restaurant, as beautiful as they come, with alcoves, a marble and rosewood bar designed by Tristan Auer. For our lunch, chosen from the generous menu: a proper gruyere soufflé, as light as a zeppelin, intensified by a lava flow of cheese siphoned right before your eyes; a huge serving of bone marrow, carefully grilled and cooled off with a parsley pineapple duo; a juicy Simmental hanger steak flash-seared over an ardent wood fire in the Josper oven, bearing proof of a lovely Maillard reaction, served with elegant fries and a siphoned béarnaise sauce… We then indulged in another beautifully crafted soufflé, this time a summer berry one for dessert, with a hint of sherry vinegar in the zesty berry sorbet. // Renaud Fuego 

FEELING THIRSTY? : If you’re ready to spend the big bucks: Beaume Noir, a Provence vermentino from Le Clos Sainte Magdeleine (€21 a glass), a Vieilles Vignes gevrey-chambertin from the Domaine Rossignol-Trapet (€31 a glass), Folio, a collioure blanc by Coume Del Mas (€90 a bottle)… 
PRICE: : Appetizers €6-40, mains €28-140 (prime rib to share), desserts €12-16.