Nüetnigenough

Fancy some calf’s head with sauce gribiche and a draft Cantillon at 5:10pm? You’re in luck, as Nüetnigenough will be fully packed come 6pm. This mostly local brasserie – apart from the odd AAAAA andouillette, but who’s counting – doesn’t take reservations, so it’s first come, first served! Inside this typical caberdouche pub (art deco facade, bourgeois wooden floors and fireplace) they haven’t reinvented the wheel – and that’s exactly why we come: Parmesan croquettes, roasted bone marrow, an américain (aka Belgian-style steak tartare) made from Irish Angus, carbonnade stews… Our pick? Broccoli stoemp (mashed veg and potato) waffle that was slightly dry, smoked salmon and crème fraîche as an appetizer; a comforting slice of veal meatloaf bathing in an eye-wateringly punchy peppercorn sauce, plus fries and homemade mayo; and for the eat-me-if-you-can dessert, a kouign-amann from Callier bakery in Uccle with caramel ice cream. Our mealtime companions? A mix of regulars who come for the meatloaf and tourists taking selfies with their fries. There’s also a small terrace, weather permitting. // Idoine Gérard

Feeling thirsty? An impressive collection of the country’s best brews: on tap that day, a Saint Lamvinus by Cantillon (€6 for a half-pint), an IPA Brussels Calling! from the Brasserie de la Senne (€4.50 for a half-pint) or a Hopfen Weisse from the Brasserie de la Mule (€6 for 330 ml). As well as some clean wines at reasonable prices, like a Languedoc white Poivre d’Âne (€6 a glass) or La Nave, a rioja from MacRobert & Canals (€40 a bottle).

Price: À la carte €43-70.