Manneken Pis Café

Manneken Pis Café (Brussels)

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Urolagnists and nostalgists mingle at Manneken Pis Café bistro, perched on the first floor of the bar of the same name, itself facing the most famous peeing boy in the kingdom. Behind the traditional stained-glass windows of this neo-caberdouche inn, a certain Flemish style permeates the large wood-clad dining room run by Charlie Gordower and Jean-Maurice Hinsenkamp, fueling tourists and Brusseleirs at honest prices – thanks to a menu by Milan La Roche (St Kilda and Tuck Shop). That evening, while the sing-song babble of a family on vacation from Rome roared out from the large central table, the chalkboard menu brought wide-open smiles thanks to dishes like mussels escabeche made with oud bruin beer, which practically melted in your mouth; tender celeriac bathing in bagna cauda and accompanied by an olive and caper salsa; some flirty pointed cabbage with aioli and raisins; or even a wonderfully retro vol-au-vent combining meagre, salmon trout and grey shrimp. A (near) first for Brussels: the bread isn’t free (and we’ve seen better)! // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? A short and wholesome selection of vino: Cheval en Tête, a white blend from Matthieu Cosse and Catherine Maisonneuve in France’s Lot department (€7 a glass), Mulatschak, an Austrian orange wine from the Meinklang estate (€35 a bottle), or an Alsatian pinot noir from Geschickt (€48)… as well as classic cocktails, soft drinks and beers (apart from the 3 Fonteinen gueuzes, €13 to €24 for 375ml and 500 ml).

PRICE: Nibbles €8-11, appetizers €10-15, mains €15-20, cheeses from La Fruitière €8, desserts €10.

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