What is the meaning of this Oktobre (R)evolution? After eight years at the helm of William Ledeuil’s fusionist neo-bistro KGB, his former partner Martin Maumet is now turning the tables and taking on taste buds solo. While the dining room has undergone a cozy transformation (untreated wood, caramel-colored zellige tiles, stripy upholstered banquettes), the kitchen follows the same adventurous footsteps as the previous regime: titillating steamed shitake ravioli, to slit open under a quilt of cabbage and mussels in a creamy green curry; an eye-catching piece of grilled veal flanked by peppers and wilted shiso, doused in a reduction and seasoned with apricot and shiso-corn condiments, plus some punchy homemade zaatar to boot; before roast damson in good company with a sparkling marigold, lemon balm and lemon blossom sorbet, plus coconut soup with candied shiso leaves. // Eric Taylor

FEELING THIRSTY? Also from the KGB gang, Romane Laignel has perfected a beautiful, but not necessarily cheap list of biodynamic wines, like: Face Nord, a jacquère from Domaine Blard & Fils (€10.50 a glass), Émilien, a Bordeaux red from Château le Puy (€91 a bottle) and Grange des Pères 2020 from the late Laurent Vaillé (€380).

PRICE: Set menus €32-39 (weekday lunch), à la carte €56-65, six-course menu €75 (dinner and Saturday lunch).