When it comes to Chinese dumplings, we love shengjian! Even if it’s not exactly a dumpling per se, it’s more of a bao (a type of brioche bun) filled with pork and/or vegetables and broth, then steam-fried for a crispy, yet moist finish. To avoid the smoking hot broth from prematurely ejaculating everywhere, make sure to consult the explanatory diagram which recommends “sucking” the liquid out with a straw before biting into this stuffed ball, making for a 100% Shanghai-style treat. In this café with Spartan comforts, you’ll also find freshly folded dumplings from the Jun Liu gang (ex-Fouquet’s and Grand Véfour) and bowls of noodles or sweet potato vermicelli that you can customize however you like: spice level, with or without broth, pimped out with your choice of a five-spice egg, peas, Sichuan beef or duck confit… To help it all slide down, there’s lemon juice and honey for €3, jasmine tea for €3 or a classic Tsing Tao beer for €4. Lunch set menus €10-11.50, shengjianbao buns €6-9, snacks €4-10 and bowls starting at €4. It’s also worth noting that there’s a small takeaway counter at 92 rue Beaubourg in the 3rd arrondissement. // J.G.