When it comes to Chinese wontons, we love shengjian! Even if it’s not exactly a wonton per se, it’s more of a bao (a type of brioche bun) filled with pork and/or vegetables and broth, then steam-fried for a crispy, yet moist finish. To prevent the smoking hot broth from prematurely ejaculating everywhere, make sure to consult the explanatory diagram which recommends “sucking” the liquid out with a straw before biting into this stuffed mouthful, making for a 100% Shanghai-style treat. In this café with exposed rafters and tightly squeezed together tables, you’ll also find a very spicy papaya salad, freshly folded dumplings from Jun Liu’s team (ex-Fouquet’s and Grand Véfour) and noodle bowls or sweet potato vermicelli that you can customize all kinds of ways: the level of spice, with or without broth, topped with your choice of five-spice egg, peas, Sichuan beef or duck confit…. It’s also worth mentioning their small takeaway spot at 91 rue Beaubourg, in the 3rd arrondissement. // J.G. & A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Homemade soy milk, honey-infused lemonade (€3), jasmine tea (€3) or a classic Tsingtao beer (€4).

PRICE: Set menus €10 to €11.90 (lunch), shengjian bao €6-9, snacks €4-10, bowls starting at €4.