Ze Kitchen Galerie
William Ledeuil, Fooding Guide 2010 special honor award
William Ledeuil has been delighting guests with his restaurant Galerie since 2001. In this artistic white space (a pillar painted by Daniel Humair, his triptych hanging above the entrance and paintings everywhere else) featuring furniture by designer Léopold Gest, Jojo, Nemo and a fish named Wanda have been replaced by a spirited but silent brigade of chefs in the aquarium-like windowed kitchen. Here, silence reigns – because there’s not a peep coming from the dining room either… So, it was in this very somber ambiance that we tested the €48 lunch menu: straight-shooting sea bream under a veil of thinly sliced cucumber, intensified by a touch of citron and wasabi; perfectly balanced bluefin tuna tataki over a brushstroke of sour cherry vinaigrette; before figs poached in elderberry juice for dessert, topped with a sour cherry/sake sorbet. Edible fine art. // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a clever wine selection: a white Sancerre from the Domaine Vacheron (€13 a glass); L’Emotion, a 2010 red from Le Mas de l’Ecriture (€12); a Sylvanner Vieilles Vignes from André Ostertag (€38 a bottle); and a 2014 red Bandol from the Domaine de Terrebrune (€61)… And for a special treat, a 2012 Saumur red, Les Poyeux, from the Clos Rougeard (€450).
PRICE: Lunchtime prix-fixe menu at €41-48 and tasting menu at €72 (six courses). At night, menus at €85 (six courses) and €98 (eight courses).