For the past 20 years, William Ledeuil has been impressing loyal crowds at this loft-like atelier space furnished by designer Léopold Gest, which features vibrant paintings by Daniel Humair. In the kitchen, the young Paul Andréjac (ex-Jules Verne) directs a cosmopolitan culinary opera with zero false notes, interpreting the master chef’s Asian-inspired score. The day we went for lunch, the €48 tasting menu featured: a shot of tomato/melon gazpacho with briny notes of bluefin tuna bresaola for the amuse-bouche; magical lobster and shellfish in a coco de Paimpol bean, green curry and lemongrass broth; perfect pollack swimming around in a bouillabaisse jus with chanterelle mushrooms, zucchini blossom tempura, purple basil and coriander seeds; before some sensual figs cooked in syrup, served with summer berries, coulis and a nectarine-shiso sorbet. At night, the big shot chef himself serves his fantasized version of Asia in five or seven courses – a few examples: porcini and spinach ravioli with a yuzu kosho jus and a gojuchang condiment; slow-roasted wagyu beef with a pepper-mostarda condiment; kohlrabi and wild sunflower; roasted scallops with cabbage, smashed potatoes and a ginger jus… // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Mainly (but not exclusively) fancy wines: a Morgon from the Domaine Lapierre (€12 a glass), Pierre Précieuse, a Loire white from Alexandre Bain (€69 a bottle), a Vosne-Romanée from the Domaine Prieuré-Roch (€525)… plus a few sakes served by the glass (€14-16).

PRICE: Tasting menus €41-48 and €72 (lunch), €85 and €98 (dinner).