Ze Kitchen Galerie
William Ledeuil, Fooding Guide 2010 special honor award
After 18 years of excellent service, everyone has forgotten that William Ledeuil’s loft-like atelier used to be a RATP cafeteria. And that’s a good thing! Because this chic white restaurant decorated with paintings by Daniel Humair, has seen the mechanics of yesteryear morph into polyglot chefs who mix up and chromatize the menu under their boss’s watchful eye. The proof can be found on the €48 lunch menu: red curry broth with Breton lobster, zucchini blossom, chicken and shiitake mushrooms; young Basque duck breast served medium rare with pan-fried foie gras, roasted eggplant and a sublime spicy licorice condiment; before a tarte-tatin-style caramelized apple topped with a lovely tamarind condiment, plus vanilla ice cream, walnut wine and a brioche biscuit. At night, the recital continues with six or eight courses, for example: an exceptional bluefin tuna killed using the ikejime method, dressed in a lemon caviar vinaigrette, and a wasabi-white chocolate ice cream with mirabelle plums in umeshu. The wine list is quite sharp: a taut Côtes-du-Vivarais red from the Domaine Gallety (€12 a glass), Pierre Précieuse, a Pouilly-Fumé from Alexandre Bain (€16), or Fleurs de Mai, a Collines-Rhodaniennes from the Domaine Georges Vernay (€65 a bottle). Menus €41-72 (lunch), €85-98 (dinner). // R.deC.