Publiek

As you leave Publiek, you’re handed a box of matches on which is written “Have some sympathy and some taste.” Well, that pretty much sums up our time at this cool restaurant with whitewashed brick walls, tables without tablecloths, and vintage chairs. Here you’ll find the three Flemish Foodies, chef Olly Ceulenaere alongside Jason Blankaert and Kobe Desramaults. Known for his rebellious streak, the chef drops by in the middle of lunch, dish cloth on his shoulder, with his interpretation of Flemish-style asparagus: chunks of white asparagus cooked al dente, soft-boiled egg from the polders and North Sea shrimp bisque; before a perfectly glazed hake garnished with grilled baby leeks, topped with chervil cream; finishing with rhubarb, whey ice cream and dill, for the lovely dessert. // Bobbi Rossi

FEELING THIRSTY? They’ve got a soft spot for naturopathic wineries (Bouju, La Sorga, Cornelissen, L’Anglore, Octavin, Milan, Yoyo, etc.), including Anfora Bianco, an Italian skin-contact wine from Lammidia (€66 a bottle) and Brân, a Gamay from Gilles Azzoni (51 €). Glasses €7-15.

PRICE: Menus €50 (lunch) and €88 (dinner), additional dishes €15