They’re back! In 2021, the Train tributary flooded the chic bistro Gustave after a few drunken days. Isabelle Bervoets (a wine expert) and Arnold Godin (ex-Hôtel Majestic in Fes) pivoted and continued the party with Quel Bon Vin T’Amène (QBVA for insiders), that’s been given a natural wine chalet-style makeover, complete with small plates for sharing (or not). In our bellies, the night we went: guinea fowl and veal sweetbread pâté en croûte that goes right to your head with its titillating celery rémoulade; heady ravioli dressed with pecorino and artichokes; a delightful beef stew with rosemary, orange and some spellbinding mashed potatoes; and to end the meal on a sweet note, Condé rice pudding with candied orange peels and crispy caramel. // Ambre Oisy

FEELING THIRSTY? Hand-selected natural wines: an Alsatian orange wine from Gross (€8 a glass), a Beaujolais from the Château de Grand Pré (€36 a bottle), Champs Poids, a Jura Chardonnay from Jean-François Ganevat (€85)…
PRICE: Dish of the day €20 (lunch), plates €12-25 (dinner).