This bar-à-manger in Perbais rekindles the spirit of the village bistro, with apéritifs, veggie-friendly options, nautral wines and plenty of unbridled laughter all on the menu. Inside her great-grandmother’s old barn, Aly Colassin (formerly of the burger food truck L’Infirmerie) has recreated a funky, rustic retreat complete with old school tables, a pellet stove and a Belgian flag draped in the background. Together with her ex-photographer partner Éric Danhier, the duo cooks up local fare on every level: crispy sesame crackers from Graines de Curieux, served with charcuterie from Ferme Simon and Belgian cheeses from Chez Maître Corbeau; vibrant burrata atop sliced orange rounds, pimped up with fennel seeds and a hit of smoked garlic oil; an anthology of locally grown carrots (a mousseline, glazed and pickled), all served with carrot top pesto; Japanese-inspired beetroot tartare with soy-cured egg yolk, wasabi mayo, pickled mustard seeds and black garlic toast; and slow-cooked slab bacon from Ferme Godfriaux (a tad on the dry side), spiced with BBQ seasoning and spring onion rounds. · Annie Zette

FEELING THIRSTY? (Almost) exclusively Belgian: Comtes de Walhain lager (€5 for 330 ml), Chant d’Éole spritz (€12.50), a red Landot du Béwé from the participatory vineyard Les Pieds dans la Dyle (€45 a bottle) and Black Hawk rum from the Distillerie de Namur (€9 a glass). As for soft drinks, there’s Atelier Cuarenta lemon and basil flavored water (€4.50 for 330 ml) and Paola cola from Liège (€3.50).

PRICE: Sharing plates €12-18, dessert €9-14.