Serial restaurateur Florent Ciccoli is adding another gem to his already-impressive collection which includes Au Passage, Jones, Café du Coin and Cheval d’Or. His latest spot? Recoin, which uses the neighborhood bistro formula much like his Café du Coin (Formica, blonde wood, ceramics), with Finnish chef Marlo Snellman in the kitchen – who used to work at Massale. The day we went for lunch, the menu featured only good, seasonal options: velvety raw tuna surrounded by cornichons, sliced zucchini, almonds and dill; incredibly tender slow-cooked pork loin with haricots verts, coco de Paimpol beans, roasted red pepper and Thai basil; before a silky honey-almond ice cream topped with shortbread, shaved almonds, raspberries and Italian meringue. At night, Recoin turns into a bar where you can devour small shared plates: blinis with raw cream and trout; popcorn chicken and spicy mayonnaise; corn beignets… // Eric Taylor
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines at honest prices: an Auvergne red from Yvan Bernard (€6 a glass), Tarn wine made by activist winemaker Jérôme Galaup in collaboration with Vins & Volailles (€33 a bottle), a Muscadet by Le Clos du Pont Marmite (€30), a Touraine Chenin-Vouvray blend from Mathieu Cosme for something sparkling (€34)…
PRICE: Set menu €24 (lunch), small plates €6-13 (dinner).
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