Amarante

The gods of grub meet up on rue Biscornet! That’s where Christophe Philippe runs his French bistro with a stroke of genius, combining carefully chosen products with masterful technique in a space that is, alas, a little chilly – white walls, red faux leather benches, varnished wood tables. What might you expect? Plancha-grilled veal brains (€12); veal tongue with mayo (€12), Kintoa pork (€26), giant line-caught sole with delicious panisse (€32)… But also, for us, the night we went, some magnificent white asparagus from M. Galice spiced with intensely flavorful Gascon chorizo (€12), a splendid leg of lamb from the Limousin, served with peas à la française and a jus de viande sauce with natural sourdough bread created for the restaurant by the Bo bakery (€26); and an authentic chocolate mousse with chocolate from Sao Tomé-et-Principe (€10). To wash it all down, there are around 50 natural wines: Amphibolite from Landron (€6 a glass), Côte du Py from Foillard (€7), Gamay, La Souteronne, from Souhaut (€32 a bottle) or a very buttery Chardonnay, L’Humeur du Temps from De Moor (€40). Menus €19-22 (lunch), à la carte €46-54. // G.LeP.