Chef Javier Calleja Bonilla and his accomplice Sébastien Hullard, two thirty-something escapees of the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme, have ended their jailbreak streak at Place Sathonay, in a former bouchon by the same name. They dressed it up in a hurry (unfinished stone walls, a marble and concrete bar, light bulbs hanging from the ceiling), and now they serve neo-bistro dishes that are classic yet insolent. Take the other day at lunch on the €19 menu: flame-charred eggplant served cold in a miso sauce; an excellent European plaice fillet crisped up until golden in butter, with chard and a creamy caper and lemon sauce; and a deconstructed black forest gateau – or plump caramelized pineapple cubes surfing on coconut sorbet. At night, there are serious tapas made with unadorned products (cheeses from B.O.F. de la Martinière, Bellota ham from Estrémadure…) and small hot dishes – the famous grilled octopus (€10), a gigantic scorpionfish quenelle (€9)… And to wash it all down? There’s a Saumur blanc from Arnaud Lambert (€6.50 a glass), a Crozes-Hermitage from Natacha Chave (€33 a bottle), a nice Rhone Gamay from François Dumas (€26), or a Côte-Rôtie from Jean-Michel Stephan (€93). Set menus €16-19 (lunch), tapas €6-15 (dinner). // A.S.