You can thank the Moussié brothers (Hôtel Providence, Le Mansart, Jeannette) for reviving a near-forgotten genre in late 2017: the bouillon, a working-class restaurant from before low cost was fashionable! It’s first-come, first-serve here (no reservations, so you’ll have to wait in line just like everybody else). With 300 white tableclothed covers spread out over two levels, there’s a festive mood and a rapidly changing crowd. The menu features all the brasserie starlets: leeks in vinaigrette, country terrine, herring with oiled potatoes, sausage with lentils, lamb stew, beef bourguignon, rice pudding and clafoutis… For us, the day we went for lunch: impeccable oeufs mayonnaise that we gobbled up in a flash; a bloody fillet steak topped with a green knob of maître d’hôtel butter and matchstick fries; before a very plump cream puff filled with crème pâtissière. The whole lot for what seems like loose change… // G.D. and A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Drinks (Perrier, coke, wines, etc.) poured out in pitchers ranging from 250 ml to jeroboams in size. Otherwise, there’s Silver beer on tap (€2.30 for a half-pint), a Loire pet’ nat’ from Jousset (€5.50 for a big glass),and nine wines by the bottle, including an organic Côtes-du-Rhône from Jaboulet (€17).
PRICE: À la carte €13.40 to €27.20.