You can thank the Moussié brothers (Providence, Le Mansart, Jeannette, etc.) for the rebirth in late 2017 of a nearly forgotten genre: the bouillon, a working-class restaurant from before low cost was fashionable! Here, the menu is displayed in nine languages and it’s first-come, first-serve (no reservations, so you’ll have to line up just like everybody else). With 300 white tableclothed covers spread out over two levels, there’s a rather Babel-cum-provincial ambiance on the weekends, and a more Parisian one during the week. And since you need a little of everything to make a bouillon, you’ll find simply that: leeks in vinaigrette, terrine de campagne, herrings with oiled potatoes, sausage with lentils, lamb stew, beef bourguignon, rice pudding and clafoutis… For us, the day we went for lunch: satisfying choices with hardboiled eggs covered in mayonnaise; generous blanquette de veau with rice that was a little bland – made up for by our add-on of good homemade fries; the inSTARgrammable cream puff drizzled in warm chocolate sauce, served with a monstrous scoop of homemade milk ice cream. The whole lot for what seems like loose change… // G.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? Drinks (Perrier, coke, wines, etc.) poured out in pitchers ranging from 250 ml to jeroboams in size. Otherwise, there’s Silver beer on tap (€2.30 for a half-pint), sparkling Brut Nature from Jousset (€5.50 for a big glass), and nine wines by the bottle, including an organic Côtes-du-Rhône Parallèle 45 from Jaboulet for €17, and a biodynamic Saumur red from Château Fouquet at €27.80.
PRICE: À la carte €13.40 to €27.20.