They did it! By opening a “bouillon” restaurant in Pigalle, Pierre and Guillaume Moussié (Chez Jeannette, Le Providence…) woke up a genre relegated to the rank of gastronomic curiosities, of which Bouillon Chartier (7, rue du Faubourg Montmartre, Paris 9th) was the only survivor…. First appearing at the end of the 18th century, these monomaniac “bouillons” served a very fatty, meaty “bouillon restaurant” – or in other words, a restorative broth – until their managers had the bright idea to serve other “restaurants” – an expression that was used at the time to describe the dishes for sale, and not the establishments where you ate them. Cheap, cheerful meals for the common folk (and others as well!), the 250 Parisian “bouillons” (Duval, Vagenende, Julien, Racine…) exploded during the 19th century before disappearing slowly over the 20th. It’s such a joy to see this old imperative finally conjugated in the present tense, with its cool spacious locale (300 seats), servers who scorn the traditional black vests and bowties, teeny tiny prices, gigantic benches, and what a luxury, a covered terrace upstairs! Served à la carte, you’ll find everyday Parisian cuisine in the tradition of its illustrious ancestors: well seasoned deviled eggs (€1.90 a piece); herring with potato salad (€4.50); bœuf bourguignon with pasta shells (€9.80); a very comforting dish of sausage and mashed potatoes (€11.50); a 100% homemade fluffy cream puff (€4.50). And, for the everyday red wine, there’s a friendly Côtes-du-Rhône served Russian nesting doll style: in everything from a quarter liter (€2.90) to a jéroboam (4 liters, €35)! // J.G.