restaurant

Clown Bar

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The Clown is always making a scene! Despite the departure of Sota Atsumi in 2019 (who left to open his own fine dining establishment called Maison), the classy bistro near the Cirque d’Hiver (a painted ceiling, a shiny zinc-topped bar, circus-themed ceramics) still puts on a fine show with tightrope-walker Luis Andrade, the former chef at Au Passage. He distinguished himself from his predecessor the other night with a very well executed number: an incredible braised lettuce heart over a bed of rice moistened by a chicken and Parmesan jus; a very elegant chanterelle, almond and apricot tart with a thin veil of lardo di Colonnata; an erudite calf’s brain electrified by ponzu sauce; tasty veal sweetbreads with black beans and fried artichoke, which deserved a standing ovation; before the less insane dessert, a chocolate crumble under a spoonful of cinnamon ice cream. FYI: at lunch, Clown Bar pulls a €36 prix-fixe menu out from its top hat: eg.: line-caught bass tartare with a sea bean cream; guinea fowl breast with artichokes and a caper sauce; fig tart with a tonka bean cream. But watch out! The prices climb quickly up the trapeze. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a spectacular natural wine selection: a Cour-Cheverny white from Philippe Tessier (€8.50 a glass), Le Petit Feule, an Arbois-Pupillin from Philippe Bornard (€54 a bottle), a red Austrian blend from Zweigelt (€40), The Blanc, an Auvergne white from Patrick Bouju (€54)…

PRICE: Prix-fixe menu €36 (lunch), plates €9-33 (dinner).

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, tools that allow you to find the best takeaway and delivery options for your neighborhood or make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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