Colchide (Paris)

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The Colchide (the French spelling of Colchis, a mythical Georgian region from the Golden Fleece) has just opened a second embassy on the ground floor of a modern building in the 19th arrondissement. Exposed pipes, cast-iron details, green plants, rugs, unclassifiable paintings (abstract or naïve art) and woodworker tables fill the rustic-baroque loft-like space. But the two locations have split the workload: there are more stews at the Rue des Poissonniers location, and more plancha-grilled meats here – pork sausage, young cockerel in a garlic sauce, spiced ground beef, marinated veal chops… But you can be sure of finding the same basics: eggplant rolled in walnuts (powerful flavors) and refreshed by pomegranate seeds (nigyziani badrijani); irresistible cheesy bread (imerouli khatchapouri) which is almost filling enough to be a meal all on its own; ravishing lamb in a white wine broth, shaken up by tarragon, spring onions, chilies and spices (tchakapouli), which we’ve never tried anywhere else; before the rather disappointing dessert, a doughy combo of raisins, walnuts, corn and wheat flour, called phelamoushi. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? It’s all about celebrating Georgian wines, the cradle of winemaking for 8,000 years: a white Mtsavane from Schuchmann, with almond and apricot notes (€6 a glass) or a convincing amber Kisi dry Vinoterra, vinified and aged in an earthenware jar.

PRICE: Set menus €13.50 to €15.50 (12pm to 2pm during the week), appetizers €6-7, breads €6.50 to €15, mains €10-16, desserts €6.

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