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In the Le Bourdonnec family, all eyes are now on the son! The clever Yann, whose father Yves-Marie provides several Michelin-star restaurants with dry-aged beef, now sharpens his own knives at a tiny counter-less shop. It’s the ideal spot for watching him perform his craft up close and personal, as he dolls out precious cooking advice. His specialty? Whole carcasses that he calmly butchers on-site, as well as a penchant for beasts from the southwest in particular (“because they’re very good”), like chicken from the Gers or the Landes, guinea fowls and hens from Garat, duck breast from Maison Jacquin, and pork loin from Lacaune. And we sure wouldn’t spurn the Frankfurters or Morteau sausages from The Lefèvres, the porc noir de Bigorre pork belly or the Guémené andouille either. Cock-a-doodle-doo alert: there’s roast chicken every weekend! // Albert Gredinbar

THE HIDDEN GEM: The incomparable Salers-Angus prime rib, a cross between an Angus bull and a Salers cow from the Hauts-de-France, dry-aged in house for 60 days (€75/kg).

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