Mehmet

Matthieu Haddak and Julien Catelain (ex-Le Servan) are taking Rue Ramey on a tour of Turkey via spit-roasted meat, making it a point of döner to convert even the most hesitant customers to the art of first-rate kebabs. The two friends work hard to combine the 18th arrondissement with the Bosporus in this angular space that contains a tiled bar, an impressive kitchen and a traditional Turkish oven. The night we went, we indulged in a HD mezze plate that combined ochre bulgur made from locally-grown wheat, pomegranate molasses, sucrine lettuce leaves, shaved and toasted almonds and smoked Isot chili with licorice and chocolate notes; a grilled Normandy chicken kebab that was incredibly juicy, wrapped up in handmade flatbread, with labneh, pepper purée, red onions, pickled cabbage and a chicken reduction; and to go with it, some delicious homemade fries made using potatoes grown in Île-de-France, plus dried chili mayonnaise, or a vibrant tomato and pepper salad… Before ending the meal on a sweet note with walnut baklavas from Maison Murat. // Renaud Fuego 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A short list that brings together Turkey and natural wines: Pur Ju, a Provence red from the Domaine Castell-Reynoard (€7), Le Facteur Su’ l’ Vélo, a Vouvray from the Domaine du Facteur (same price), Ténéré, a Gard Grenache from Le Chai Perché (€32 a bottle)… Along with Demory IPA on tap (€4.50 for a half-pint). 
PRICE: : Kebab €11, fries €5, mezze and sides €6-8.