Restaurant Nakatsu (Paris)

© Maki Manoukian

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What are an ex-Père & Fish founder and a former wine start-upper doing in Montmartre’s faubourgs? Making fried chicken, of course! In their long izakaya framed by a shopfront windowed from floor to ceiling, Charles Cagnac and Matthieu de Seigneurens fry up karaage using beautiful chickens raised for 120 days in the Perche region. Nibbled by yours truly around one of the high tables: a hearty 200-gram portion of their famous fried chicken, just as crispy as we’d hoped, and served with a tartar sauce infused with miso (made in Burgundy) for dipping. Unless you’d rather opt for the fried chicken burger or donburi versions (also available as a vegetarian option, prepared instead with Portobello mushrooms), before ending the meal with a flavorful chocolate-buckwheat mousse seasoned with shichimi spice mix. Knock-out flavors all around! // Sonia Sétif 

FEELING THIRSTY? : Nothing all that world-altering in terms of the drinks, but there are a few good beers (Japanese Asahi or Parisian Demory, €4-5 for 330 ml), sake (€4 a glass) and natural wines: Allez bon vin, a Muscadet from the Couillaud brothers, Vulpes, an Alsatian orange wine from the Domaine Eblin-Fuchs (€5 a glass, €25 a bottle)… 
PRICE: : Menus €15.50 to €19, chicken €12, burger €12, donburi €14, sides €3 to €3.50, desserts €4-6. 

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