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Le Supercoin

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The towering, loudmouthed, creative chef Augustin Greneche will surely be annoyed to see his name appearing here – too bad! Regardless, his Supercoin has left us with our mouths hanging wide open in admiration: it’s a joyfully chaotic neighborhood dive (painted banners, church pews, a tagged ceiling) that sponges up furiously independent beers with beautiful sandwiches. For us, the night we went, after a few pints of Good Scop Bad Scop (€5.50): an intensely flavorful Gros Marco sammie made on a well-moistened baguette and stuffed with beef marinated in soy sauce and lemongrass and then tenderly braised, steamed sesame cabbage, pickled carrots, cilantro and a lime-honey-chili sauce; a comforting onion omelet sandwich with roasted red kuri squash and sage butter, all sandwiched between two slices of toasted white bread; and an indecent pita bread sandwich filled with mushroom balls (button and shiitake), miso carrots, (lots of) celery rémoulade with smoked paprika, and a corn and black pepper sauce. During the day, Alan Sourivong (ex-Cibo) prepares short bistro menus: pimped out dashi; carbonnades à la Flamande (a beery stew made with French beef), smashed potatoes and fennel salad; chocolate lava cake… // Rosa Poulsard

FEELING THIRSTY? Craft beers of the moment: a Saison from the Brasserie du Grand Paris (€3.50 for 250 ml), a smoked oat stout from Nomade Brewery (€4), a pineapple-mint sour from the Brasserie de l’Instant (€4) and even an alcohol-free pint from the brewer Craig Allan (€5).
PRICE: Combo menus €15-18 (lunch), sandwiches €5.50 to €9, desserts €6.

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