The guiding principles of this new fiefdom for carefully-sourced dairy products? Passion and a joyful adventure between friends. At their respective shops located behind the 18th arrondissement’s city hall, the four protagonists of this story dreamt up this wonderful project, which saw the light of day in the summer of 2022: Laura Mattei and Maxime Malbranque, of the nearby Racines fruit and vegetable shop, Noé Lazare, the boss of the cult-favorite Berlin-style kebab shop Gemüse at the corner of the street, and Manon Sénal, who runs the adjoining illustration shop. You’ll find French charcuterie (addictive venison, beef or pork saucisson and pastrami), raw-milk cheeses (Comté aged in a cave by Gojon, unbeatable Salers, authentic Époisses…) and two butters served by weight each week, made with care by Noé and his spice collection (chili, seaweed, etc.). At lunch, you can also grab a baguette or semolina bread sandwich of the day, made with whatever vegetables are fresh (€6-8). // Farah Keram
The hidden gem: The delicious Pyrenees sheep’s milk tomme cheese, aged in a tunnel (€35/kg).
