Subaco

Tucked away incognito behind a timeworn marble sign that still reads “Boucherie” from the space’s previous life as a butcher’s shop, Yuka Kubo (who used to work at Chez les Anges) has lured in a local crowd by teaming up with chef Juliette Novak, who serves izakaya-style classics. In her “little nest” (subaco in Japanese) that’s been decorated with bistro tiling, a pool-blue mosaic tile bar and vintage furniture, lunchtime options are limited to two dishes (katsudon or chirachi), but the menu gets fleshed out at nightfall: radiant slices of tofu marinated for two weeks in miso, boosted with a sprinkling of smoked salt; incredibly tender shrimp with Japanese seven-spice blend; addictive roasted potatoes with seaweed butter; luscious eggplant bombarded with red pepper flakes and fried shallots… or straight from Yuka’s hometown of Osaka, an imperial pork or octopus okonomiyaki – a white cabbage pancake drizzled with mayo and a sweet-and-sour sauce, or, for meat lovers, a majestic yakibuta (juicy slices of roasted pork belly glazed in their juices). Hungry for more? Opt for one of the red bean mochi, unless you’d prefer a slice of the yuzu cheesecake. // Claude Ratinier

FEELING THIRSTY? A short selection or organic wines (Pourquoi Faire Sans Blanc, a Roanne chenin from the Domaine Sérol at €8.50 a glass, Under My Skin, a grenache tinted with syrah produced by Jeff Carrel at €34 a bottle) or, to stay on the other side of the rising sun, Coedo IPA (€7), an ultra-romantic Kubota junmai daiginjo sake (€46 a bottle) or homemade yuzu lemonade (€5 a glass).
PRICE: : Set menu €16 (lunch), small plates €7-16 (dinner).