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Champion

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How do you build a team of champions? Take three enthusiastic food lovers with colorful résumés (Katia Shotar from Luz Verde, Noel, her brother, from Ito, and Yann Abaléa, Katia’s sweetheart, who worked for Ken Kawasaki), then assemble this diverse trio in an angular bistro with yellow walls, red tables and a terrace, and you’ll get this bustling neighborhood spot that’s perfect for chill afternoons. The day we went for lunch (during the summer heatwave), we had a XXL bowl of gazpacho prepared with watermelon, arugula, feta and basil, plus olive oil rubbed garlic bread for dipping. Otherwise, they also serve some planetary hits: cheeky mapo tofu; impressive beef bourguignon; incredible udon; flavor-packed pan bagnat sandwiches…. And for dessert, a chocolate cookie sprinkled with fleur de sel. // Renaud Fuego

FEELING THIRSTY? Plenty to wash it all down naturally on the terrace, while taking in concerts and art exhibits or playing board games: beers on tap from Crazy Hops (€3 for 250 ml) or La Débauche (€5.50), Anguile sous Roche, a Loire Cabernet (€4 a glass), a Savoie Altesse from Ludovic Archer (€38.50 a bottle)…
PRICE: Mains €11.50, set menu €16, sandwiches €9.50, tapas €7.50 to €12.50.

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