Inside what used to be Roseval (2012-2015), the dashing Tuscan chef Michele Farnesi (ex-Rino, Heimat) has been setting off luxurious fireworks at Dilia since 2015. In his little inn with rough brick walls, veined hardwood floors and a carved zinc bar, we saw proof once again the other night, for €64, that nothing has been lost to change: a striking chickpea panelle (the Sicilian cousin to falafel) with rosemary and guanciale; brioche with chicken liver and currants; gnocco fritto, an angelic cushion stuffed with ricotta and eggplant; crucifying ravioli with pumpkin and raw red prawns from Sicily, in a shellfish, passion fruit, marigold and yuzu broth; tempestuous flash-seared cod with creamed cauliflower, horseradish, oysters and a beurre blanc espuma; cyclonic linguine with mussels, saffron, zucchini and chervil; lacquered eel over burrata with a Granny Smith apple, verbena and wild leaves jus; (pre)historic grouse with roasted sunchokes and a smoky sunchoke purée, raw and braised radicchio, seeds; and for a taste of la dolce vita, a lively lemony egg cream then a very bobo baba with plum and umeboshi syrup, sautéed plums and a buttermilk-coriander espuma! To drink, there’s a Passerina Pantaleone Chicca from Les Marches (€7 a glass), Chapeau Melon, a Loire white from Jéémie Huchet (€31 a bottle), a red Brachetto Maté from Piedmont (€43). Set menu €17-32 (weekday lunch), menu €48-64-77 (dinner and weekends). // M.J-.D.