En mets fais ce qu’il te plaît
In what certainly looks more like a dining room in a messy apartment (posters taped to the walls, an old couch, a meat slicer tucked up against a printer) rather than the commonly shared notion of a “restaurant”, the Japanese chef Katsumi Ishida (ex-Robuchon, Chapel, Ducasse) runs the show, carrying on the house tradition: terroir-izing your taste buds in his own unique way, with fruit and vegetables from the local markets, meats from the Basque country and fish from Brittany… The night we went, a mere €38 got us: a chilled verdant zucchini soup; cabbage and red endives topped with a generous quail roasted with spices; very fresh herbed mackerel rillettes; tender roasted duck breast with cherries; majestic Breton turbot with a silky lobster sauce and a procession of peas and cabbage; before yellow peach imprisoned in a surprising verbena jelly – or a delicate apricot-thyme shortbread with peach sorbet.
FEELING THIRSTY? The handwritten wine list features 100% natural wines: a Crozes-Hermitage from Dard et Ribo (€9 a glass), a Loire white from Marc Pesnot (€45 a bottle), or a Gaillac red from Michel Issaly (€50).
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €25 (lunch), €38 (dinner) and €48 (Friday and Saturday night).