En mets fais ce qu’il te plaît
One day the city of Lyon will decide to erect a monument to the glory of Katsumi Ishida, the Lyonnais-Japanese chef who’s been preaching the gospel of bistronomy in the Capital of Gaul since 1999! His house of worship? A tiny space with 15 seats, encumbered with timeworn tables, plastic chairs and bottle cadavers from Pacalet, Guillot, Overnoy and Pfifferling… Here, the great man serves faux classic cuisine, like the night we went on the €38 menu: big white asparagus served cold over a goat cheese caillé seasoned with pink peppercorns, truffle oil and raspberries, embellished with nasturtium flowers and sprouted grains; an enormous and perfectly steamed Breton turbot steak with very tender, almost charred white asparagus, broad beans and peas, plus a silky blood orange sauce; before a more ordinary chef’s dessert combining a scoop of dark chocolate mousse, a scoop of artisanal caramel ice cream, a hazelnut tuile and a few raspberries. The very natural wine list is written out by hand: a Muscadet-sur-Lie from Jo Landron (€7 a glass), a Crozes-Hermitage from Dard et Ribo (€9), a Bourgogne-Aligoté from Derain (€52 a bottle) or a Cornas from Allemand (€150). Menus €25 (lunch), €38 (dinner), €48 (Friday and Saturday night). // A.S.