Just as comforting as a hug from grandpa on a blustery night in Edinburgh, Juveniles (pronounced the English way), the Scottish wine bar from wine merchant Tim Johnston (opened in 1987!), is still resoundingly British! The other night, in a space with bistro tables and walls covered in bottles, children’s drawings and rugby jerseys, the good nutriments whipped up by his daughter Margaux and chef Romain Roudeau (ex-Régalade) were more effective than any prescription: a moussey chicken-mushroom terrine (€9); eccentric plancha-grilled melon served with langoustines in bisque (€18); flavorful roasted pork belly with fregola sarda, pesto and arugula (€22); or a timeless Scottish haggis when it’s seasonal (€19). All that before a bowl of vitamin-rich rice pudding (€7) or a plate of Colston Bassett stilton from Neal’s Yard (€7.50). For the rest, keep calm and drink wine: a dry Jurançon from the Domaine Castéra (€6.50 a glass), a bubbly from Yves Duport (€5.50), a beautiful Cornas from the Domaine Durand (€45 a bottle), etc. Set lunch menu €16.50 (dish of the day + glass of wine + coffee), €25-31 (dinner), à la carte €38-60. // A.A.