Elevating wine to its pinnacle, Tim Johnston’s cult wine bar, taken over by his daughter Margaux in 2014, continues drawing in gourmet Anglo-Saxon crowds with its oenothèque and exciting British small plates made by Romain Roudeau (ex-Régalade). The evening we went, on the €31 menu: a delicate mackerel fillet marinated in white wine and served with half a grilled white zucchini and really delicious homemade peanut butter; a fat slice of slow-roasted pork belly served with fregola sarda and crisp fennel; and a runny chocolate lava cake with chocolate ganache and crème anglaise. A true feast worth celebrating with one of the hundred bottles of wine chosen by Margaux: a sublime Saint-Romain from Moret (€8.50 a glass), a great Moulin à Vent red from Jean-Jacques Parinet (€9 a glass) and a beautiful selection of Jerez (between €5 and €10.50 a glass), like the magical Pedro Ximenez from Emilio Hidalgo (€8.50). Set menu option €16.50 (lunch), menus €25 and €31 (dinner), à la carte €37-50. // C.LeH.